Each Culinary Artist Ought to Study Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Secures 4th on Ranking of London’s Best Restaurants.
When compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. However, nestled high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of north London.
An Surprise Accolade
The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the owners utterly surprised.
“I’m utterly astonished,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.
A Appeal of Simplicity
This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.
A Star Creation: Tantuni
However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.
The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.
The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.
Beyond the Classic Tantuni
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.
Surpassing the Stars
Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.
A Ethos of Heart
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.
“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.
A Journey of Perseverance
Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.
A Achievement for the Community
This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.